Wandering Bologna: A Complete Guide

Bologna: A Complete Guide. Our month in Bologna had as many layers as mamma’s lasagna—and we’re here to share every delicious bite. From iconic towers and bustling markets to scenic side trips. You don’t need a whole month to fall for Bologna. But we won’t lie, having the chance to slowly uncover this city was pretty sweet.

Want the full story of our month living and working in Bologna? Start here.

Curious about how our journey as Modern Nomads began? Go all the way back to the beginning here.

First, a word about the city of Bologna itself.  

Bologna’s city center has ancient roots. First settled by the Etruscans in the 6th century BCE, then expanded under Roman rule as Bononia. In the Middle Ages, the city was fortified with massive walls, but during the Renaissance, many of these were dismantled to allow for urban growth, and new walls and gates were erected.

ruins of the Galliera Castle and mystery wall (Giardino Salvatore Pincherle)

A few medieval gates (and the occasional mystery wall) still stand as reminders of that era, including Porta Galliera, Porta San Donato, and Porta Maggiore. Later, in the 19th century, the Renaissance-era walls were also taken down, though several grand gates—like Porta Saragozza and Porta Santo Stefano—still frame the city’s edges.

Most of what we’ll explore lies within the footprint of Bologna’s former Renaissance walls.

Bologna’s porticos

Starting with the porticos

Bologna’s iconic porticos come in a variety of styles and materials, reflecting the city’s long architectural evolution. Some of the oldest, dating back to the Middle Ages, were originally built in wood. Later, they were constructed in brick, and during the Renaissance, more elegant plastered and decorated versions appeared. Together, they form nearly 40 kilometers of covered walkways throughout the city.

There are a few standout porticoes to keep an eye out for in Bologna. Two of the most impressive are the Portico dei Servi on Strada Maggiore, with its wide open arches and sweeping scale. Also the elegant Portico della Banca d’Italia, known for its refined detail.

For something older, seek out some of the ancient medieval porticoes dating back to the 12th century. A few examples: Isolani (Strada Maggiore), Seracchioli (Piazza della Mercanzia), Grassi e Boncompagni (Via Marsala), and Azzoguidi (Via San Nicolò).

These historic arcades offer a glimpse into Bologna’s layered architectural past — and they’re still very much part of daily life.

steep pilgrimage to San Luca, rewarded with iconic views and an Icon (found her!)

San Luca

For the ultimate portico experience, take the (3.8km) pilgrimage up to Santuario di San Luca, a hilltop church that houses the Byzantine icon of the Madonna and Child. The route, which involves a serious climb, is covered by the world’s longest portico at 666 (yep) arches.  It was built to protect the icon during her annual procession to the city every May for the Feast of the Ascension.

The first pilgrimage was to ask God to stop the relentless rain, which He did; thus, the annual pilgrimage began.

The Icon was absent when we visited, having pilgrimaged herself down to town. We caught up with her in the Cattedrale di San Pietro, and again later on our second climb to San Luca.

Torre Garisenda and Torre degli Asinelli

In medieval times, Bologna’s skyline was famously spiked with towers—over 100 of them—built by wealthy families as symbols of power and prestige. Today, only a handful remain. The most iconic, Torre Garisenda and Torre degli Asinelli, lean towards each other in the city center. Both are currently closed to the public for structural restoration—Garisenda in particular is at risk of collapse.

Torre Prendiparte

Fortunately, you can still get a bird’s-eye view of the city. Torre Prendiparte, a former prison turned boutique accommodation, turned tourist attraction, is open to visitors. (Sundays only, timed ticket, purchase online).

Or head to Torre dell’Orologio, the clock tower on Piazza Maggiore, for another sweeping view. (timed ticket, purchase online). 

our view

Or rent an Airbnb in a tower, with your very own 360° view, as we did.

the view from Via Piella

Next, look for signs of ancient Bologna

Bologna was once a city laced with canals—used for transport, irrigation, and powering the city’s mills. Over time, most of these waterways were covered by roads, hidden beneath the modern city. But a few glimpses remain, and some are now being reclaimed.

One of the most charming spots is La Piccola Venezia (“Little Venice”), a small canal visible through a window on Via Piella, known as the Finestrella (“little window”). Yes, it’s just a little window, but the postcard-perfect view of water winding between colorful old buildings is oddly delightful. You can catch a similar view from the other side of the bridge, minus the line of people waiting to peek.

the “hands” that mark the original gates to the old Jewish Ghetto

Jewish Ghetto

Just a short walk from the canal, you’ll find the Old Jewish Ghetto, a maze of narrow alleyways and hidden courtyards tucked away near Via Guglielmo Oberdan. This quarter was walled off in the 16th century when Pope Paul IV ordered the segregation of Jewish communities. Though the ghetto’s walls and gates are gone, the sense of enclosure lingers in its winding layout.

Quadrilatero

Quadrilatero

A few blocks away, history takes on a livelier form in the Quadrilatero. Bologna’s medieval market district still hums with energy just as it did centuries ago. Lining these narrow lanes are butchers, fishmongers, cheesemongers, and produce stalls, many family-run for generations. It’s a living museum of daily Bolognese life.

Pop into the Mercato di Mezzo (literally market in the middle), where you can grab a seat and eat your snacks acquired from the surrounding Quadrilatero stalls.

Or check out Mercato Erbe, in the Saragozza district. This covered market is where locals go for fresh produce, cheese, meats, prepared food, and lunch in the Center.

Neptune in all his glory

In and around Piazza Maggiore

Piazza Maggiore is the heart of Bologna. Here, you’ll find the imposing and beloved Fountain of Neptune—a Renaissance masterpiece by Giambologna. Neptune’s trident famously inspired the logo of Maserati, a brand born in a garage in Bologna.

severed church, half-done frescoes, Doug in sarong

On the south side of the piazza stands the Basilica di San Petronio, a striking and very unfinished example of Italian Gothic architecture. (Entry is free, but cover up—or purchase a €2 sarong at the entrance, as Doug did). The church was once intended to be even larger than St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, back when Bologna was an ambitious independent city. But once it came under Papal control, those grand plans were halted—literally. The nave was cut short to make room for the nearby Archiginnasio (see below). It’s a testament to how even if something fails to reach its full potential it can still be a thing of beauty.

Inside, don’t miss the meridian line—a long astronomical marking inlaid in the floor, which runs diagonally to the left as you enter. It was used to measure time and the position of the sun with remarkable precision.  And look up, to see the unfinished frescoes.

The Palazzi around the Piazza

Four important palaces frame Piazza Maggiore:

• Palazzo dei Notai (west side)
• Palazzo d’Accursio (west side, next to Notai)
• Palazzo del Podestà (north side)
• Palazzo dei Banchi (east side)

Two of these are especially worth visiting:

Palazzo d’Accursio (also known as Palazzo Comunale) served as Bologna’s town hall for centuries. It’s actually a complex of connected buildings, now home to municipal offices and museums. Enter through the shaded courtyard with sculptural stone benches to access the Torre dell’Orologio (the previously mentioned scalable tower; timed ticket, book online). Your ticket also provides entry to the Collezioni Comunali d’Arte. The museum includes over 30 rooms of art, furniture, and frescoes reflecting the city’s civic pride.

Just across the piazza, Palazzo del Podestà was once the seat of local government. Its most fun feature? The Whispering Gallery—stand in opposite corners of the vaulted archway and speak softly into the walls; your voice will travel across to the other side.  Why?  Because lepers needed a confessional, too.

the history beneath your feet

Biblioteca Salaborsa

Also on Piazza Maggiore, right behind the Neptune Fountain, is the Biblioteca Salaborsa, Bologna’s public library. It’s free to enter, and its coolest feature lies beneath your feet: the Roman Forum ruins (free entry), visible through glass panels in the floor and accessible via a walkway below. A fascinating glimpse of ancient Bologna, just a few steps below today’s check-out desk.

Archiginnasio, Teatro Anatomico, Museum of the History of Bologna, haunting Lamentation

Must-sees near Piazza Maggiore

The Archiginnasio – Once the main building of the University of Bologna, it houses the incredible Teatro Anatomico (timed ticket, purchase online), a wood-carved lecture hall that feels like walking onto a Renaissance film set. The building also houses over 6,000 coats of arms of former students and faculty painted on the walls and ceilings. Take a minute to check out the Archiginnasio Municipal Library.  It’s the largest library in Emilia-Romagna, housing over 850,000 volumes, including rare manuscripts and incunabula, many of which can be seen if you peek through the locked door within the main library. 

Palazzo Pepoli Campogrande – Just a few minutes away, this baroque palace contains the Museum of the History of Bologna. It’s home to beautiful frescoed halls and provides a good, comprehensive history of the municipality (if somewhat confusing and misnumbered). (Ticketed; buy onsite.)

Santa Maria della Vita – Tucked just off Piazza Maggiore, this small church holds a powerful surprise: Niccolò dell’Arca’s Lamentation over the Dead Christ. The expressive terracotta figures are among the most emotionally intense sculptures of the entire Renaissance. (Ticketed; buy onsite.)

Piazza Santo Stefano – Sette Chiese

More to explore in Bologna

While Piazza Maggiore is the city’s central gathering place, many consider Piazza Santo Stefano to be the most charming in Bologna. It has a quiet, historic feel and is especially atmospheric in the early morning or late afternoon.

The Basilica of Santo Stefano (Sette Chiese) complex is also known as the “Seven Churches,” as it once included seven interconnected religious structures. Today, four of the original churches remain  and are open to the public (free entry): Chiesa del Crocefisso, Chiesa della Trinità, Chiesa del Santo Sepolcro, Santi Vitale e Agricola

The complex blends Romanesque, Lombard, and Byzantine influences, and feels far older than many other churches in the city.

La Piazzola Market at Montagnola Park

Every Friday and Saturday, head to Parco della Montagnola, just northeast of the city center, near the train station, to shop La Piazzola, Bologna’s largest open-air market. It’s a lively scene filled with stalls selling everything from clothing to pots and pans to lipstick.

Take note of the monumental staircase that leads to Montagnola Park.

Tucked behind the park, you’ll also find the atmospheric ruins of the 14th-century Castello di Galliera—a reminder of Bologna’s medieval fortifications.

alfresco dining in Bologna

Bologna: A complete guide to where to eat and drink in Bologna

The eating is all good in Bologna. Really. Closer to Piazza Maggiore, you might pay a bit more, but honestly, bad meals are hard to come by.

We loved the tortellini in brodo and ragu at Sfoglia Rina—worth the wait in line for a table. Camera Con Vista was perfect for outdoor dining in the pretty Piazza Santo Stefano, and the gelato at Cremeria Santo Stefano was delish.

Trattoria da Me is the splurge-y, “in a tower” experience—it was fine, but not unforgettable. We prefer to eat outdoors; just be sure to note it in your reservation, even though they claim you can’t request it.

For something casual and satisfying, we liked La Prosciutteria Firenze for generous mortadella and formaggio boards, and I Panini di Miro for excellent panini and piadina. 

ravioli aka dim sum

Craving a break from pasta, meat, and cheese? Nectare does a solid veggie burger and açaí bowl and shout out to Ravioleria Quadrilatero, whose ravioli is actually dim sum.

For coffee, Terzi was our go-to for perfectly executed flat whites, taken standing at the counter, like true Italians.

Le Stanze martini – count ’em. FIVE olives!

For drinks, head to Drogheria Gilberto for a tasting of the deliciously affordable local wines. Grab a proper cocktail in the stunning former chapel that is Le Stanze, or a random Brooklyn Lager (go figure!) at Birreria Popolare tucked in a charming alley.

our rooftop views

Skip the rooftop at Hotel Metropolitan. The views from our very own tower were much better.

Bologna was the perfect launchpad for some truly exceptional day trips to Modena, Ravenna, Verona, and Mantova.  Stay tuned for all the details! (coming soon)