Stay Awhile in Bologna

This is the story of our month-long Stay Awhile stay in Bologna. For our guide to all the things to see, do, and especially eat in Bologna, click here.

Photo cred to Sheri, who shared this from her Dolomites Backroads trip (note we have definitely accidentally killed a few Italians in our time)

Arriving in Italy put a bounce in our step and a “prego!” on our lips. This is a country where everyone is effortlessly stylish, and the scooters are driven like they’re stolen. Where conversations unfold like theater—punctuated by animated hand gestures and words shouted with a passion signaling deep affection or, possibly, intense hatred. Where emotions run high, espresso runs strong, and the food sticks to your ribs in the best possible way. Where the reds are bold, the Spritzes are cold, and every meal feels like a celebration.

We couldn’t wait to dive in—fork first.

modern nomads never say no to bubbles

But first

First, it feels like the right time to reflect on a pretty wild milestone: arriving in Bologna marks one full year since we left our house and hit the road. One year as Modern Nomads, funding this grand experiment by renting our home. (Possibly our financial adviser’s most stressful clients, he let out an audible sigh of relief when we mentioned we just might break even.)

Back at the beginning, everything felt a little uncertain. Would we take to the Nomad life? Would the Airbnbs be clean? Would the wifi work? Would Doug have to fly halfway around the world for a meeting? Would we be able to find good coffee? Would we pack enough supplements? Would we want to kill each other after spending this much time together?

Now, a year in—and not done yet—we can happily report that life on the move feels completely natural. Sure, there have been hiccups, and yes, there’s always that flicker of dread that the next place might be a total disaster. But all things considered? It’s been good.

Nomads at MI8 premiere, Doug and Aid at the Knicks

A quick detour

After Spain, but before Italy, we made a very out-of-the-way stop in NYC—for a board meeting, a new pair of shoes (turns out you can literally walk holes into them), and some time with the kiddos. Timing was on our side, and we managed to squeeze in a few memorable events: a movie premiere (Mission Impossible 8—yep, Tom Cruise is still holding up well), a concert (Fontaines D.C.), and a Knicks playoff game (soul-crushing loss).

million miler

Meanwhile, Doug had a milestone of his own: hitting Million Miler status on United. Remember that concern he’d end up flying halfway around the world for meetings? Well, that happened—more than once. It nudged him over the line for bragging rights and, honestly, not a whole lot of anything else. But, to his surprise and amusement, this BFD was announced over the PA system and earned him a pilot handshake and more than a few incredulous and admiring glances from fellow passengers. And then, the kicker: A plaque arrived in the mail (thanks, Annie, for always generously picking up our mail). Future regifting ideas are being considered.

Then: Bologna

We descended through clouds that looked sturdy enough to hold our weight, resembling the pillows from the sleep we didn’t get. The flight from New York is just short enough to rob you of any real REM. But then: Spring again! The sun was shining. The air smelled fragrant. Spirits rose! Allergies promptly kicked in.

Global allergy season

Turns out we have been chasing allergy season around the world. We manage to hit each town as pollen peaks. Pharmacies are always picked clean, and Doug spends his days sneezing his way through historic squares and scenic strolls.

my god, the pasta

Why Bologna

We often get the question “why Bologna?” from friends at home, but also from the somewhat confused Bolognese: “A month? Perché?”

When we added Bologna to our roster of Stay Awhile cities, we knew exactly two things:

One, it’s a university town—our son Aidan was Covid-cheated out of his semester here, so we were cheated out of our visit.

Two, the food would be epic. When Italy, the holy grail of cuisine, has a region that’s especially famous for food? You pack stretchy pants and go.

Turns out, Bologna was a brilliant choice

It’s just the right size—not overwhelming, not sleepy. We’ve stepped down from sprawling Mexico City (home to over 20 million), to Madrid (roughly the size of LA), to what feels like a big town, home to 400,000. Here, it actually feels possible to see it all—and not leave any tortellini unturned.

our scenic Airbnb

Stay Awhile in Bologna: An Airbnb in a Medieval tower

We might be the best or worst Airbnb guests you’ll ever have—it really depends on your tolerance for constructive criticism. We’ll politely request new pillows and report your broken blender and shitty lighting. But we’ll also fix your Wi-Fi and unclog your drain. Bologna was no exception (pillows replaced, wifi upgraded, drain unclogged).

In Bologna, a city famous for its towers, our Airbnb was in an actual tower—complete with stunning 360-degree views and the inevitable staircase workout required to enjoy them.

meat slicer

As if Tower! and View! weren’t already strong selling points, the apartment also came with a meat slicer. In the U.S., you’d need training and a permit to get near one, but here any child can thin-slice you some prosciutto crudo.

Bologna

Getting our bearings in Bologna

As per our own best practices, we dropped our bags and hit the streets for a walking tour. Our first order of business in any new city: interrogate the guide. What’s the deal with the architecture? What’s the story behind those ruins? Where’s the best ragu?

We soaked up as much as we could and were astounded by what this city has to offer. As it turns out, Bologna is famous for a lot more than just towers and ragu. It’s a city of porticos, of color, of culture. And that university Aidan was cheated out of? It’s the oldest in the Western world (founded in 1088) and, BTW, tuition maxes out around $5,000/year.

ancient porticos

Bologna and its porticos

Where Mexico City has leafy boulevards and New York has unsightly scaffolding, Bologna has elegant covered sidewalks—UNESCO porticos that shield you from the elements.

The city’s famous porticos actually began as a clever land grab. Space inside the city walls was limited, and rather than expand the city boundaries, resourceful residents built outward, extending upper floors on wooden stilts over the sidewalks. The result? Covered walkways or porticos, which had the added benefit of protecting from the rain, sun, and muddy streets. What was once a resourceful expansion soon became code for new construction. They’re everywhere, and they’re gorgeous.

the vibrant hues of Bologna

Bologna as the Red City

Why, depends on who you ask. It’s either due to its famously leftist politics or the strictly regulated color palette that makes the buildings glow in burnt reds, oranges, and dusty pinks—a perfectly coordinated backdrop for your Aperol Spritz at aperitivo hour.

Bologna’s towers, now and then

Bologna is the city of towers

Once home to over 150 medieval towers—vertical status symbols of the day—Bologna still has a handful standing, despite centuries of earthquakes and the fact that the tallest two lean with the kind of confidence only a medieval structure can pull off.

Ragù + mortadella +++

Bologna sits in the heart of Emilia-Romagna—Italy’s famed “Food Valley”

Ragù alla Bolognese, mortadella, tortellini, Parmigiano-Reggiano, prosciutto, and balsamic vinegar all hail from this region. Doug has temporarily shelved his vegetarianism in favor of full dairy and cured meat immersion—because when in Bologna, you eat the mortadella and the parm.

It’s genuinely hard to find a bad meal here. We’ll share some of our favorites below, but first, a note on two restaurant quirks we loved to hate.

menu confusion in Bologana

One: Instead of simply listing the bread, meat, and toppings, menus often present every imaginable permutation of ingredients—like a culinary spreadsheet scrawled on a chalkboard. Even Google Translate throws up its hands.

Two: The lighting. It’s… assertive. Bright enough to perform minor surgery. A stark contrast to Madrid, where we struggled to read menus with reading glasses and a flashlight. In Madrid, it’s all about the ambiance. In Italy, it’s about visually appreciating your food. We’re siding with Madrid on this one.

And if we had to add a third, we like to eat outdoors, and that’s where the smokers are: Lots of them and always waving their ciggies and blowing smoke in your direction.

graffiti and street art

Bologna has a solidly thriving economy

We expected a bit more grit—based on our experiences in other Italian cities—but were pleasantly surprised. While the street art we loved in Madrid gives way to more traditional graffiti here (but also some cool art), the city itself feels tidy, lived-in, and comfortably prosperous.

There are tourists, but mostly European, giving it a more local, less insta-pose energy. The university adds a dose of youth and vibrancy to the historic backdrop. And despite the falling dollar, Bologna still feels refreshingly affordable, to us anyway.

celebratory Bologna

Bologna likes to host an event

We arrived to find the city buzzing: a procession for the Black Madonna winding through the streets, a marathon clogging traffic, and the annual pilgrimage of the San Luca icon into town (more on that later) marking Ascension Day.

Add to that a chaotic celebration of Bologna’s Coppa Italia football victory—which we tried very hard to understand (with little success). We also just happened to hit Italian Unification Day, the Festival of the Porticos, and Pride. And next month there’s a film festival. Apparently, there’s always something happening here.

Speaking of Unification Day

Italy didn’t become a unified country until 1861, after a long and complex process of stitching together a patchwork of independent states and standardizing the Florentine dialect as the national language. Maybe Italians speak with their hands because they were all suddenly expected to learn a new language, and for a while, hand gestures were the only thing anyone actually understood. Hot take?

According to our guide, a proud Venetian, this “recent” unification is exactly why many Italians don’t necessarily feel Italian—unless they’re abroad or the national football team is playing. Otherwise, they’re Bolognese, Venetian, Sicilian, and so on.

What really struck us was that word: recently. History in Europe moves on an entirely different timeline than in the U.S. Just a few years before Italy formalized its unification, San Francisco had a population of about 500. Their recent history is our ancient history.

Doug’s Bologna keyhole collection

Stay Awhile in Bologna: So how did Bologna stack up?

We’ve yet to meet a city on this adventure we didn’t enjoy—and Bologna is no exception. This historic, friendly, endlessly charming city of porticos, towers, tortellini, and more far exceeded the expectations we didn’t really have to begin with.

Due flat white molto caldi

Yes, we found our cappuccino spot—though in Italy, we’ve abandoned oat milk, fully embracing dairy life, and the flat white wins for that extra espresso kick. Our new go-to? Due flat white molto caldi da asporto, per favore. But no matter how singy-songy we try to say it, they always, always, answer in English. And then add a strong “Okai” for good measure.

serene yoga, sad spin

No, we didn’t find a decent spin class… Doug tried his best, but it was a sad showing. Yes, the yoga studio was serene, sunlit, and dreamy. And honestly, with all these stairs, who needs cardio?

We ate all the things. We checked off the Bologna highlights and took some pretty amazing day trips to nearby towns. Click here for itineraries and a deeper dive.

We absolutely loved our time here and would come back in a heartbeat—if only there weren’t so many other places in Italy calling our name. Next up, a week in Greve, then a month in Lucca, where the plan is to do a whole lot of nothing.

Read on! Grazie Mille! Okai!