Three Packed Days in Granada

One of the reasons we picked Madrid as a place to live for a month was so we could hop down to Granada to visit our niece, Emma, who was deep into her semester abroad (and fluent in tapas and late-night clubbing by then). We hopped the three-hour train south for a long weekend, and she delivered 3 packed days in Granada. Perfectly full of sunshine, culture, and cheerful conversation.

Granada is full of delightful surprises

From the dramatic mashup of Islamic and Catholic architecture to cave-dwelling Flamenco and a robust tomato culture, Granada, like Islamic architecture, keeps you guessing what’s around the next corner (see how we worked that in, Emma?!). Add in the Alhambra, a 13th-century Moorish palace that will take your breath away, and an Arabian-style hammam? Vamos.

Granada day one

We arrived bright and early on the Renfe high-speed train from Madrid (just under three hours), then checked into Palacio Gran Vía, a centrally located boutique hotel that used to be a bank, with helpful staff and grand vibes to match the city.

Pro Tip:  Use Omio to book your train, because the Renfe site is notoriously glitchy, but don’t accidentally book the wrong date (as we did), because they do not sell fully refundable tickets, and they will not cut you a break.

Granada Cathedral

The Cathedral of Granada

The Cathedral of the Incarnation is smack in the middle of the old town, towering over the plaza like a divine architectural flex.

We went inside, mostly because it was there. And wow — these Catholics don’t mess around. Towering Corinthian columns, gold-plated altars, and marble everything. While admiring the main nave, the bells suddenly erupted in celebration — the Vatican had just elected a new Pope. Everyone whisper-cheered, and there was something oddly satisfying about experiencing the moment inside a cathedral. We also felt a weird flicker of national pride: The new Pope was American.

The Cathedral plaza itself acts like the town square that it is. In our two days, we witnessed both a full symphony on the front steps and a Red Bull CrossFit competition. Beethoven meets burpees.

scenes from Granada, including stone inlaid streets, Antonio’s tomatoes, and the entrance to Alcaicería

Lunch & wandering

They say paella is only legit if cooked in Valencia, but we felt it was our duty to double-check. Bodega de Antonio did a solid job, and we’d gladly go back for further testing. Though if we’re honest, the real star of the meal was a plate of tomatoes. Just tomatoes. Sliced thick, topped with avocado and drizzled with olive oil, sea salt, and cracked pepper. If there were a global tomato fan club, Charlotte would be president, and the Granada heirlooms would be the star attraction.

We spent the afternoon meandering the winding alleys around the Cathedral, with their pretty, stone-inlaid streets (probably lethal in the rain) and the Alcaicería, a lively bazaar once used as the Moorish silk market. Colorful scarves, leather goods, and approximately 37 vendors selling the exact same merchandise, in perfect anti-Capitalist coordination.

Granada tapas

The tapas tour

After a much-needed siesta (Southern Spain takes rest seriously), we kicked off Emma’s tapas tour. Tapas in Granada are different. At least from Madrid, our only point of comparison. You order a drink, and they give you free food. Can you imagine? Each place brings out a different surprise. Four crisp glasses of vino blanco seco + four delicious small plates = €12. Try beating that in Madrid. Or anywhere.  Tonight we sampled Boabdil Restaurante and Omka Kool.

We ended the night with cocktails at Lemon Rock Bar, a hip spot that knows how to mix a drink, as long as you are not in a rush, and has a nice rooftop that we were too lazy to check out.

Granada day two

Because we operate on New York hours, we started our day around 11 a.m. Fortunately, this synced beautifully with the rhythms of southern Spain, where no one blinks if you’re still eating dinner at midnight and your tour guide rolls in from the club at 5 a.m. Hi, Emma.

Albaicín & view from Mirador de San Nicolás

Coffee & Climbing

We began the day, as all good days should begin, with a flat white.  This one came from Sur Coffee Corner — a small café with qualified baristas.

Caffeinated and ready, we took on a short uphill walk into the Albaicín — the city’s ancient Moorish quarter, full of winding cobbled streets and whitewashed houses, in beautiful contrast to the streets below. We wandered up toward Mirador de San Nicolás, a scenic overlook directly across from the Alhambra. And yes, the view is just as epic as every travel blog claims. It felt special to take in the snow-dusted peaks of that other skiable Sierra Nevada, a short 45-minute bus ride away.

Lunch followed in a nearby square. A brief word of advice: if you see laminated menus advertising breakfast, don’t get your hopes up — you’re getting lunch. And you’re going to like it

Hammam Al Ándalus

Hammam Heaven

The highlight of Day Two: Hammam Al Ándalus, the Arabian-style bathhouse near the base of the Alhambra. Imagine a candlelit cavern of tiled pools, ranging from blissfully hot to glacier-fed cold, with mint tea on tap and zero obligation to do anything but float.

The included massage turned awkward, as several in our group jockeyed for the female masseuse, resulting in one poor male being passed around like a hot potato. Charlotte, heroically, took one for the team and can report that his hands were strong.

After yet another deeply deserved siesta, we again gathered for tapas.

Bohemia Jazz Café decor

Tapas, Rooftops, and Piano Tables

First stop was Terraza Monasterio, a rooftop bar with panoramic views in literally every direction.

Then the next chapter of Emma’s tapas tour — this time hitting Poe Bar and La Riviera. The snacks kept coming but we still managed to find room for dinner at Mezze, a lovely vegetarian spot.

For a nightcap, we stumbled into Bohemia Jazz Café — a moody little gem filled with floor-to-ceiling books and vintage decor, low lighting, and live music. Locals sipped vermouth at tables made from repurposed grand pianos, which was a fun touch.

Alhambra from afar

Granada day three

Day three was all about the star of the show — the Alhambra. Perched above the city like a crown jewel, it’s breathtaking even from a distance. But it’s not until you step inside that the full magic hits you.

Book your tickets well in advance, and pay close attention: the timed entry is for the Nasrid Palaces, so plan to see the Generalife gardens and Alcazaba either before or after. We had Emma as our guide (perks of traveling with a local), but if we didn’t, we’d absolutely recommend a small group tour or private guide. The details are dense — Islamic calligraphy, geometric tilework, layers of Spanish additions, corners to peek around — and it’s worth having someone help decode it.

We spent two and a half hours wandering and were shocked when we checked the time. Wear good shoes and fuel up.

Alhambra

Miraculous history

It’s kind of a miracle the Alhambra still exists. Built during the 13th and 14th centuries by the Nasrid dynasty, it narrowly escaped destruction when Ferdinand and Isabella reclaimed southern Spain. Instead, it was preserved, kind of. There’s some jarring Renaissance architecture tacked on (Charles V, we’re looking at you), but the original Islamic artistry steals the show.

Generalife gardens

The Generalife gardens alone are worth the price of admission. We caught the roses in full bloom, and they were glorious.

Cueva La Rocío

Flamenco in a Cave? Yes, Please.

After a restorative siesta (don’t judge), we hopped a tiny electric bus back up to the Albaicín for a Flamenco show at Cueva La Rocío. Held in a cave-like space carved into the hillside, it felt aggressive, intimate and raw. We somehow snagged the best seats in the house: dead center in the back, with a full view of the performance.

If you’ve never seen Flamenco live, it’s hard to describe. Think pounding heels, snapping fingers, and impossibly fast clapping — all percussion, all emotion. It’s intense. And mesmerizing. Flamenco originated with the Romani people of southern Spain and was shaped by centuries of Arabic, Jewish, and Andalusian influence. It’s not polished, but it is powerful.

Dinner… or Not

Post-show, we wandered toward a promising terrace restaurant for a late dinner. Unfortunately, the vibe was less “welcome in” and more “we’re closed but also we hate you.” When asked if the kitchen was still open, the proprietor responded, “We work good, not hard,” and waved us away. Direct, to say the least.

To be fair, this may have less to do with us and more to do with Granada’s growing anti-tourism sentiment — mostly directed at big buses and guided mobs clogging the narrow streets. But still. A simple “lo siento” would’ve sufficed.

And– important note– everyplace else we went:  Super friendly.  Despite the Spanish custom of saving smiles for special occasions, like weddings or Papal announcements.

Nightcap, Andalusian-Style

We ended our final evening in perfect style at Café Teatro La Farándula, a tiny, corner spot filled with locals — most around our advanced age, despite the advanced hour — singing, dancing, and clapping along as a woman kept rhythm on a wooden box drum. It felt like stumbling into someone’s very musically talented living room — the kind of moment you hope for and rarely find when traveling.  Thanks, Emma.

Granada wrap-up

Granada is a perfect, surprising, and soul-stirring three-day getaway—ideal if you’re nomading in Madrid or exploring southern Spain.  We loved our long weekend here, and we loved every minute with Emma. We hope you enjoyed the story of our 3 packed days in Granada!

3 packed days in Granada: The highlights

Stay: Splurge – Palacio Gran Vía | Mid-range – Hotel Anacapri or Casa de Reyes

See: The Alhambra (book in advance, consider a guide),  Albaicín, San Miguel Alto Viewpoint, and the view from Mirador de San Nicolás (if you have it in you), Hammam Al Ándalus, Flamenco in a cave, Cathedral of Granada (audio tour optional)

Coffee:  Sur Coffee Corner 

Tapas: Boabdil Restaurante, Omka kool, Poe Bar, La Riviera

Resataurants: Bodega de Antonio (for paella and tomatoes),  Mezze (Vegan Morocco/Spain fusion)

Drinks:  Café Teatro La Farándula, Terraza Monasterio (view), Bohemia Jazz Café, Lemon Rock Bar